If you are discovering small villages North of Prague, you might be surprised by the Devil Heads looking down on you while you are driving. If you are curious, you might discover several pieces of this artist in the area. Do you want to discover more?
If you are planning to discover a protected landscape area Kokořínsko, don’t forget to stop by the Devil Heads in small village Želízy. If you are curious to visit more pieces of the same artist, plan a one-day hiking trip when you will spend a whole day in a pine forest discovering similar creations.
The author of the Devil Heads, Václav Levý (1820 – 1879), used to be a cook at the nearby castle Liběchov. We don’t know his motivation behind starting this new career, but it was worthwhile. He ended up creating statues also for the St. Vitus Cathedral at the Prague Castle.
The Devil Heads are the most iconic pieces of his art-work, sometimes even called the “creepiest place in the Czech Republic.” Two enormous demonic faces are about 9 meters high, that is something unique for the Czech Republic. They are also the largest carved heads in the world.
When you continue by the blue trail, you might discover his other pieces, such as the cave Klácelka with figures of heroes of the Czech history. Take a longer trail and also discover a relief of Snake, Sfinga, a cave with carved heads, or chapel of Mary Magdalene.
Želízy also has an interesting history. For several years, the village was a popular destination of Franz Kafka. His favorite Stüdl Penzion does not exist anymore, but you can find here a memorial board. The village was predominantly German before the WW2. That’s why it was connected by the German Empire in 1938. After the war, all the German population was expelled. This is the dark side of our history.
How to Get to Devil Heads
Želízy is about one-hour drive North of Prague, at the edge of the protected landscape area Kokořínsko. You can also take a direct bus from Prague, train station Holešovice to Želízy. As a stopover, you can also explore nearby Mělník city with a view on the confluence Vltava and Elbe river.